MUCH better than sending your PRICELESS filmed memories to a vendor and 'trusting' them to take care of it for you.

One last pro tip: have a can of compressed air handy, and blow it gently at the scan bed during records if you haven't thoroughly cleaned the film first; the horizontal layout allows any dust, hair, or other particles on the film to fall right onto the backlight, and in particularly bright scenes, there'll be a VERY obvious smudge / dot in the scan

so the film is in the proper format to further work with it in your video editing software

...especially when the film is excessively dusty, like mine.

Unfortunately, once you've put the film into those 3 tabs, it's pretty much impossible to pull it back out without risking damaging the film.

I'd like to see a little more robust handling of finicky film reels (improved feed/pull mechanism).

Picture quality is as good as the original film

It seemed to be gentle enough with the fragile film.

The colors washed out and the resolution also lost some vs. the beauty of good old Kodak Super-8 film off a projector.

Unfortunately, the take-up reel stopped working after a few hours of use, which basically made the scanner useless you want to either dump the film in a box on the floor or hand wind.

The film jams at the spinal just after the camera takes the picture

It does a good job of cleaning, as well as conditioning the film

When scanning 8mm films the device works very well, with few difficulties pulling the film through the scanning mechanism

- Film routing: I started with the recommendation of a reviewer to bypass a couple of the take up pins, but I found that on the 7" reel the film was really jumpy as a result.

Although it does not make a crappy 8mm film any less crappy

the more sharp bends you make the more tendency to jam or break the film

I won’t cover film preparation like cleaning or fixing bad splices

They’re solid, which means the film has to drag across them

It really does do wonders on cleaning and refreshing your film

Aside from that, the film has jammed a couple of times when there are old, rough splices in the film

I've examined my films very carefully, and the sprocket holes are neither torn or worn, and each film (and the scanner) is cleaned before every scan

Loading in the 3 tabs is impossible, you'll likely break your film trying (I did)

i've seen this working before and know that it works very well and i've seen decent quality 1920x1080 digital films that were made using this machine.

They mentioned that it couldn't handle 7" reels, that the arm would fall down or that the film would unravel or stall

I suggest that you clean the film first as that helped the color quality.

Older film loses flexibility over time

This machine really doesn't like spliced film

Film splices, or warping of the film can cause the machine to hang, occasionally with a chorus of grinding gears

Converting very old film going back to the 50’s capturing family and loved ones long gone

We received the 2.0 version (pro) of this unit and immediately started on digitizing about 15-50' to 150' reels of 8mm and Super 8mm film.

The quality was as good as the original film

It means that you really need to watch the machine as it runs or different portions of your film will have misaligned film (the top showing at the bottom of the frame etc)

If you don't babysit each capture, you're going to wind up with lots of dead time at the end of your videos or even mangled film

This is how classic films like Lawrence of Arabia and Gone With the Wind are transferred to a digital format so they can be restored and shown on video - you take a picture of each individual frame

When I first tried the machine the film kept jamming up and I was ready to throw it against the wall

but once the film was cleaned and using paper to lift the pressure plate a little all is good

Older film is sometimes more brittle and film can break

If the film is good, the digital images are good

When feeding spliced and or damaged films, the scanner stops frequently.

Remember, we aren't trying to restore a long lost silent film from Tod Browning here...just getting some great old home movies into the digital age

Poor quality film may get the jitters or need some exposure/color correction.

I've run about 15 large edited-together reels, about 10 hours of film through it, both super 8 but mostly standard 8, and have had no problem, two times old worn elongated sprocket holes had it stop in place, but the cool LED lamp for small distance/conversion doesn't burn film like an old projector, so I simply had to move the film a bit and continue, you can run cut pieces through it, doesn't have to be tensioned as perfectly as a real-time projector

Keep the scan bed clean with the provided brush... the old films do deposit dust

Look closely, because it may look like it's under that back tab when it isn't (if the film is aligned just right, you can see the tab through a sprocket hole giving

Wolverine has given us the chance to save all our cherished 8mm films with no potential loss in the mail!

You will need a film cleaner

It can increment files to 9,999.I disagree with an earlier reviewer that the take-up reel motor should be "stronger," in fact I wouldn't be surprised if it has a belt or slip-clutch system to NOT tear apart your precious old films.

- the film did not go over the first spindle on the machine leading to take up reel

Make sure the film is under these three tabs or you'll ruin your film.7) auto-advance with no control

I don't expect to ever have to get these old films out of storage to work with again, but can deal with breaks later if I decide to re-scan in the future

I don't like how the film can tend to snag at splices, but careful monitoring will usually take care of this problem

Happy film scanning / transferring.

This is one of the only options for digitizing super 8MM film, and while it works, it's NOISY

We used an editor to run the film through to clean it.

My film had a few glued spices, and they never failed.- I made one pass with the Film Renew, and then a rewind pass with a clean, dry pad to remove excess solvent, which actually cleaned the film both ways

Film tension.

It takes a little while to get the best from this, that is mainly down to the condition of your film and that is why we now use Digital, film is notoriously temperamental, clean film is paramount

I converted films from the 1950's thru the early 1980's and was satisfied with the results

Keep in mind that the film is scanned much slower than real-time

The slow frame advance really helps get fragile old film through without breakage, but does require patience to get through large reels

The film I shot years ago on a high end Camera looks stunning

Old, dry, brittle film feeds poorly, and dust or hair makes the quality of the final video disappointing

You don’t have much room to work with and you have to “twist” the film in order to get it under the 3 tabs

At the end of the reel, the unit will eventually stop on its own, I guess it has a sensor that when the frame doesn't change, it will stop, HOWEVER, I've also noticed that if the film is very dark or too light, it will trip the sensor too

If you have a lot of 8mm and Super 8mm film stored away, this is the perfect tool for converting it over to digital media

Cons:*I bought a refurbished unit from AmazonJams easyWill not transfer Super 8mm film

I have years of film working experience - this product does not properly capture the frame rate needed.

I am copying Super 8 film and have it properly set up but about 1 in 3 rolls hangs up constantly.

I had so much noise, color issues, and shaking film that I just bit the bullet and sent the reels to Cinepost at www.posthouse.com.

I am a hobbyist 8mm and super 8 film collector, and like many, I have more film in my study than is good for me (that's what she said

the Super 8 film works much better

My super8 film worked OK, even with poor film quality.

As long as the 8mm and/or super 8mm film is in reasonably good condition (clean with secure and accurate splices) the Movie Maker will do its job, and do it very well.

; this allows all but the first 1-4 frames to be scanned and avoids leader/splice hang-up at the very start; the more you eliminate hand-pulling hung up film through, the less likely to break it or the splices

But you are going to have to color correct your films

I have been at this all day, nursing each reel, dealing with film damage, constant stalls, doubled or tripled exposures, and the compression

Working with Super 8mm films, however, is a VERY frustrating procedure

I did a lot of research and was worried by comments I read such as...it takes forever to do a film, you need to babysit the machine because it can get stuck, it splits film, etc

The only way to fix this is to stop in the middle of the recording and begin again which of course means you would have to break up a single film into multiple video

I've had about 50 old 8mm and Super 8mm films sitting in a box for quite a few years

Wolverine used fake rollers that looked good in the ad photo but are guaranteed to scratch the film.

This will scratch the film.

Remember, we aren't trying to restore a long lost silent film from Tod Browning here...just getting some great old home movies into the digital age

Clean the lens after each film as the dirt can build up quickly Make sure that the previous person rewound the 8MM or you will be copying upside down

I pre-cleaned the film and there were no imperfections

Great film

It is necessary to initially clean the film before digitizing and is a faster method of rewinding the film.- Use a product called Film Renew with lint-free cotton cleaning pads (a cut-up t-shirt into 3"x3" squares will work too--professional pads are really expensive), to clean the film before processing

I cannot stress enough how important this is, because the difference in video quality between unclean and clean film is almost unbelievable

what is great is that on the regular projector, if the film would have an issue and stop, there would be a good chance you would burn a few frames of film with the heat of the bulb

4 stars overall because scratching the film is just not acceptable... except in my case I guess because once I get the film captured, the film is being trashed anyway, but if you need multiple passes for different settings, well good luck

It takes time to convert the film but worth the time.

I gave one to my father to convert his large collection of Super 8mm film which no one was enjoying

I had a couple of dozen 8mm and super 8mm films from my childhood.

This is a review for the Wolverine Pro 8mm/Super 8mm film scanner

And I can't say that I am expert yet but coupled with a video editing system (where some of the graininess can be removed among other improvements), this has to be the best way to digitize old 8 mm and super 8 mm films.

No matter how much film is cleaned prior to scanning, dust particles seem to settle on the light table

Older film loses flexibility over time

I've got some delicate film from the late 1940s that scanned beautifully

We have over 50 Super 8mm films and so this made sense, but I'm not confident the motor and gears will last past 20

The problem is that film which was shot in mixed lighting, tends to look yellow in the highlights and this is very difficult to color correct in the video

Used to record super 8mm film to digital.

These machines work by grabbing your super 8mm or 8mm film and taking a shot of each frame.

I've tried several reels of my Super8MM film and had varying results Form excellent to fair, the problem is the film needs cleaning.

Wolverine should also make available a way to clean the film before scanning.4

The only downside I can think of offhand is that rewinding the film on the Wolverine is cumbersome and takes a long time

The film must be twisted to lie under three tabs -- un less you have small nimble fingers, getting the threading is frustrating and time-consuming

The colors washed out and the resolution also lost some vs. the beauty of good old Kodak Super-8 film off a projector.

I used the Wolverine to digitize all of my father's old Super 8 films without error or need of adjusting

The film angle entering the scanner causes it to rub against a corner edge - If I were designing this I would put a small micro fiber cloth there to clean the film of dust before it enters the scanner rather than create abrasion rubbing against images on the film

I noticed the pick up reel was having problems and the film started to slow down and skip on the light course track where the camera is

I reset the film several times, and check it for damage (the film is perfect) then get the same fault

I have tried several rolls of both 8mm & Super 8mm film and I initially tried to crop the image using the scanner

My original unit stopped a lot for seemingly fine film

The problem is not your film, it's the advancing mechanism of the scanner.

but I have noticed a few things while converting on Grandfather's old super 8 films.

The final product is every bit as good as watching an old film on a clunky projector in a dark room, and you can pause, rewind, capture still pics, etc

There is no hot projector bulb that burns the film

Another problem that had arisen was the film, at times would completely stop moving and the machine would shut down

I attempted someone else fix of changing the film path, which worked at first and then the alignment of the film changed and after restarting that pathway no longer worked

Makes frame by frame scans of 8 MM and Super 8 silent films.

For 8mm film, slow the footage .8 or 80%, and Super 8mm film, slow down to .9 or 90% of the speed

I can't really comment on final picture quality because I have realized my uncle wasn't the best film taker

On top of that, back then when projecting the film, it would jump around when it got to worn sprocket holes, scratching the film itself

If you feel the need to clean the film - I thought I would but decided to skip it - get 16 oz. of 99% isopropyl alcohol at your local drugstore for about $5.00 instead of $13 for 2 oz. of film cleaner

I accidentally threw out the two reel adapters for Super 8mm film

( super 8 is a litter wider film and runs at a faster speed so you will know if you did it wrong when viewing)after leaving the image capture area the film will go over the first guide, skip the next one and go under the last 2 before going to the recieving reel.

You do have to babysit it if your films are old or damaged (some of which you cannot see), but the fix is east and the software for editing it all back together is very good

I did NOT want to send my precious films off to a processor and end up with a non-editable DVD

Half-way through digitizing my second reel, the film began to jam with no apparent reason.

These suggestions would make this a super product for those who have loads of 8mm or Super 8mm film hanging around

Every film I have converted has jitters, but these same reels play smooth as silk through a traditional projector.

The first reel worked fine but during the second reel, the machine started making a clacking noise, the film stopped moving and the device displayed an error message about checking the "film's place", meaning its position on the film table

The better quality the film and image, the better the finished results

Sometimes the film buckles ever so slightly, creating a blurred frame

I made sure my film was clean and I repaired any splices that looked like they might catch on the mechanism

I’m hoping to figure out a work around for future videos.2nd update: I initially bought a different converter which worked great but had an annoying spot on all the super 8 mm films I had but not the 8mm which caused me to return it

I am also transferring Super 8mm films I made in the 1970s as a hobbiest...stop action movies, mini silent films, and travelog movies I made, which had accompanying sound on reel-to-reel tape (which would always fall out of sync after about ten minutes)

I have converted multiple reels of old Super-8 movie film to high-quality videos, using this device and a 32 GB SD card

This is by far my biggest complaint because the long tedious process of capturing a film requires constant monitoring and nudging along to complete

The finished image quality is very nice and you can enhance that if you clean the film with a lint free cloth while you run it through the editor

When things are working right and the film is good the picture quality is great.

I usually run them in the background where I can listen for a change in sound but as stated after hours and hours of use have had just two stoppages where tape was shoddily applied to join film or just bad condition, never trouble with good film

Every film I have converted has jitters, but these same reels play smooth as silk through a traditional projector.

"Yes", but not without the understanding that an editing program is absolutely essential in order to get your films to look good

If you want to destroy your film

(I completed HIGH SCHREWL)The Wolverine file counter .. isn't created by Start/Stop process but increments when the film rail bar is raised (thing that hold film flat on scanner)

Most 8mm films were shot at 16fps (FPS=frames per second) while Super 8mm films were shot at 18fps

The film is difficult to load into place, and it's easy to mis-align the film in the top left corner of the view ramp

Very good equipment to digitalize 8mm and super 8mm films

Poor film joints might get stuck once in a while, no big issue if you oversee the conversion process

First thing i would say is if you want a good image clean your film.

This unit is much more solid and I have had good success in transferring Super 8 films to digital formats.

This unit is much more solid and I have had good success in transferring Super 8 films to digital formats.

There are a few adjustments, like you'd get when scanning film or prints with a flatbed scanner

If you hit any rough splices or chewed up sprocket holes, the film will hang up

“twist” the film to correctly place it under the recording head

It's important to keep the machine clean use compressed air and wash film,I made a jig for cleaning the film and rewinding film saves a lot of time.

Compared with having the films done professionally, this unit produces grainy films with poor color.

I cleaned the film with a fine velvet cloth first

I was hoping to digitize many old 8mm and Super 8mm films to save money from sending them to a commercial processor.

Definitely spend the money on film guard film cleaner/ lubricant

...especially when the film is excessively dusty, like mine.

Do "baby-sit" your valuable old films to watch for hang-ups and frame out-of-centering, this is the fault of the film's worn and spliced condition, not of the MMP.

The device works as advertised!I wasn't sure what to expect, but the first thing I noticed is it was designed with a lot of thought to how it would handle and process delicate film.

Film in as bad a shape as mine, there are sprocket holes missing

(You should be doing this anyway in case the film gets jammed or splits during the transfer.

y muchos otros ajustes y la máquina solo te marca error, pero no te dice cuál

SO, I went on Amazon and bought [25Ft RCA M/Mx3 Audio/Video Cable Gold Plated - Audio Video RCA Cable 25ft] and also to my local Walmart to purchase a [Audio Video Gold RCA Female to Female Coupler