:InstructionsPrepare: Clean surface area of dirt, grease, oil, paint, or loose debris

Only when you are certain that there are no traces of oil is it time for the solvent cleaning(s).Joining Broken Parts: If you are joining broken parts, with a clean but irregular matching surfaces, limit the roughening to scratching with a wire brush or etching with an acid (but be sure to wash off all traces of the acid)

This was a fantastic product, i was able to clean and scrap up the surface of my side mirror

Drained coolant from the plastic/fiberglass radiator tank so there was none in the crack, washed the crack with water to get rid of any coolant, wire brushed it to rough it up and remove any debris, cleaned the surface with alcohol, sanded it all over to make it rough.

I used alcohol to clean all surfaces and also lightly sanded then.

You can also scratch the surface with a knife, or use coarse sandpaper, or both depending on the material

Some slick surfaces need to be scuffed up with sand paper to help the JB Weld stick better.

A paper plate can be a good mixing surface; popsicle sticks are the best mixing tools.

I find the two keys to a solid bond to be: (1) roughing up the surface with emery cloth or a wire brush and then (2) cleaning the surface with isopropyl alcohol to remove any remaining dirt or oil left by your hands...

I had scratched up the surfaces with a metal file, and made sure it was clean.

Distress both surfaces with sandpaper..

Epoxy putty sticks much better if you warm the surface you want it to stick to.

Scuff the surface with low-grit sandpaper and it's very secure.3

Epoxies are generally NOT recommended for flexible surfaces, such as leather, wood, or flexible plastic, and generally do not adhere well to glass, etc.

It is important to clean the two surfaces with acetone or alcohol to remove all grease

Fabulous product when used to its best advantage; not for bonding just any kind of material or without proper surface prep.

The solvent cleaning is for removing the LAST TRACES of oil from CLEAN surfaces.

Note that I said I did clean the surfaces thoroughly.

If I need maximum strength I warm the surface a little but don't cure it with heat

If I need maximum strength I warm the surface a little but don't cure it with heat

First, I scratched up the surface to give the JB Weld more surface area to hold on to

The greater the relative surface area of contact, the strong the bond will be

Roughed up the joint surfaces just a little with a wood rasp, cleaned them, glued, leaving a little bead running around the joints on the bottom side (cleaned the top side as I needed it to be flat).

Carefully spread about 3/16" thickness of J-B (about 4 oz. worth) to the top surface of the sand inside the tube, let cure and you've made a hard inside bottom.

If you expect miracles, slathering it on smooth metal surfaces or joining parts with little surface area, you will be disappointed

Clean both surfaces with acetone.

maybe I didn't rough up the surface enough 2

Walla, not only does duct tape support while curing, it provides a smoother surface once the 24 hr. cure rate takes place

A trick I learned from a user group forum is that, by using a hair dryer from a slight distance to warm it when applying, the JB Weld will flow for a smooth surface and even coverage.

Second, clean the surface thoroughly with acetone.

However, keep in mind, if you are planning to apply JB Weld to a smooth surface, you should also rough up the surface using a fine grit sand paper as a second preparation step

I find the two keys to a solid bond to be: (1) roughing up the surface with emery cloth or a wire brush and then (2) cleaning the surface with isopropyl alcohol to remove any remaining dirt or oil left by your hands...

Clean surfaces, give it time to set and it works

DO NOT use alcohol to clean the surfaces before applying JB Weld.

The metal needs to be abraded with a file to create a rough surface

Mix it up, clean the target surfaces, and then stick it together

It stick to pvc plastic well if you scuff the surface before applying.

The surfaces were once again cleaned.

I prepped surfaces well.

Proper mixing and proper surface prep are essential for

As with any adhesive, the surface must be clean and rough.

If it is possible to sand the surface when the JB Weld has hardened, then overfill the hole slightly.

It is an excellent product and as long as you give it a good prepped surface and a long drying time, this bond is nearly permanent

Just make sure the surfaces are clean and roughed up.

Took 3 passes to get a perfectly smooth surface and it's stronger than the original

Make sure whatever you are fixing has a clean surface free of paint and dirt and you will have a strong repair.

Although I haven't had problems in the past using isopropyl alcohol to clean my bonding surfaces, prior to applying J-B Weld products, it is worth noting that the J-B Weld FAQ recommends NOT using alcohol because of it leaving a "petroleum residue".

Clean with a solvent (according to another reviewer, acetone is the best solvent for this purpose, but rubbing alcohol will work), roughen the surface, then clean with the solvent again.

They recommend you use Acetone or paint thinner to clean the surface, as it will not leave a petroleum film, since I didn't have any of either, I used carburetor/choke cleaner

As noted by others, you need to really rough up the bonding surfaces

WHEN TO USE EPOXY CEMENTWhen you need a strong rigid workable (e.g. sandable and/or paintable surface) adhesive, particularly for use on metal or hard plastic, epoxy is usually the best choice.

I looked at it around five hours after putting it together, some of the epoxy had run out the end and was forming a roughly 1/8" inch think shell over and inside the RJ45 plug (with a very nice flat surface

Since the surface's were already rough, I didn't have to rough them up

I cleaned the surface where I was going to epoxy with

First, the surfaces must be roughed up a bit

Make sure to thoroughly clean and scuff the surface you are applying this to for maximum results.

I prepared the surface by sanding away the paint and any rust and then using acetone to clean off any surface grease and dirt.

F.The key is to clean the surface completely

WHEN TO USE EPOXY CEMENTWhen you need a strong rigid workable (e.g. sandable and/or paintable surface) adhesive, particularly for use on metal or hard plastic, epoxy is usually the best choice.

Whatever, clean surfaces as much as you think , then some more

I cleaned out the hole and actually enlarged it a bit to get rid of the other corroded/rusted part and to have a clean surface for this stuff to bond

The surface MUST be rough

Solid as when it was new

I then checked out the ABS tone ring and it appeared to be on the car very solidly, as solid as if it had never broken.

great as always

any outer coating(s).)I could tell you about all of my applications of this, but you would get bored fast as it would be a really long list

good as ever

Good as always

It works G-R-E-A-T !